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For these reasons, raspberries should not be planted if an abundant crop is expected. If you just have to try one, get the Dorman Red variety. It may not be the best tasting raspberry, but it will live a day or two! Mulching during the summer helps. If blackberries are such a productive, easy-to-grow berry, why doesn't every gardener have some? First of all, many gardeners may not have a location that receives sunlight for at least 10 hours each day. Shade limits the productiveness of the otherwise magnificent blackberries. Secondly, most gardeners allow the rampant growth of their vigorous blackberries to become weed-like rather than productively controlled. Blackberry fruit is produced by one-year-old canes. After the one-year-old canes have produced a crop, they decline in vigor or die, and should be removed after all berries have been harvested in June. Even as blackberries are ripening this year's crop, it's time to prune them for next year. The berries that ripened earlier this year are borne on one-year-old canes referred to as "floricanes". "Prima-canes" –the canes that will be next year's fruiting floricanes –emerged from the ground earlier this spring and in many cases are now five or six feet long. These new canes are readily distinguishable since they have no berries on them and they have larger leaves than the present fruiting canes. The prima-canes in erect blackberry varieties are very erect and not branched. Top them now at three to four feet above the ground to force them to branch and develop a hedge shape. Left unpruned, the prima-canes will become somewhat unmanageable. Cutting back the primocanes now will also temporarily remove one of the thorny hazards confronted while trying to harvest this year's crop. One or two more prunings will be needed this summer on vigorously growing blackberry prima-canes. The ideal goal is to have a much-branched, rounded, or box-shaped hedge no more than four and a half feet tall and three feet wide by October.

Blackberry hedge-rows that have become too tall need to be shortened after harvest is completed. One way to do this is to cut all the canes back to two or three feet high with pruning shears, a hedge trimmer, etc. An alternate, more severe after-harvest pruning scheme is to simply mow all the canes to the ground. This requires a tractor and shredder and is a method commonly used by commercial berry growers to rid themselves of dead flori-canes. Growers who install trellis wires in erect blackberries limit their pruning options. Irrigation and good weed control are necessary to produce sufficient re-growth for a good crop the next year if after-harvest mowing is done. Trailing blackberry varieties such as Boysenberry or Thornless Boysenberry and Dorman Red raspberry produce new prima-canes that trail on the ground. Leave these canes on the ground at least until after berries on the fruiting canes are harvested. Then the old fruiting canes can be cut off and replaced on the trellis with the new prima-canes. With proper spring and summer pruning, blackberries will be more manageable and more productive and little or no winter pruning will be necessary. Blackberries are truly a Southern crop. They are adapted and productive. Kiowa, Brazos and Rosborough are the champions of these brambles. If you have an area that would be suitable for a bramble hedge, transplant plants or root cuttings three feet apart in rows now to insure an abundant production of luscious berries next year. Raspberries do not keep well on the plant and must be harvested every 2 or 3 days. Expect a small crop the first year after planting. Everbearing reds may produce a small crop in fall of the planting year. Production reaches its peak the third year after planting and slowly declines in subsequent years. Many growers choose to replant a site after 10 years. To store raspberries for later use, proper post-harvest care is critical. Select only berries in good condition and immediately cool them to as close to 33 degrees F as possible. Wrap in plastic; allow them to come to room temperature before removing the plastic wrap to make sure condensation forms on the wrap, not on the berries.